Jul 4 2012

N7 Armor – Neck and Lights Part 2

Alright!!!!

I did a lot in just two hours. The torso is so close to getting done!

I attached the neck:

I added some more hot glue to the back to make sure it sticks. I’m going to attached the two side parts to the print with elastic so it’s going to be pulled. That is later of course.

This is how it looks:

I now had to get the shoulder blades ready for attachment. I taped the wires together so it would be easier to glue on and not have to worry about melting the wires.

Now…the part I was worried about the most was finding a way to get the light switch on the other side of the armor so you couldn’t see the wires. What I decided to do was cut a small slit behind one of the blades and push the button through the small slit.

I’m so happy that it worked! I was worried that it would end up either ripping to messing up the wires.

Now, I hot glue gunned the left shoulder blade on the back and then drew out the middle part for the small single light.

And NOW THE LIGHTS ARE DONE!

So, I need to add the belt part of the torso, the N7 logo to the front, and the straps. The torso will so be done in time for Otakon. Fingers crossed for the rest!

Any quesions?

Jul 4 2012

N7 Armor – Back Lights – Part 1

Ok! I got really ambitious tonight and thought I would start working on the back of the armor.

I needed to draw out the shoulder blade parts of the armor (That will hold the lights). I know that they are smaller in the game but I needed enough room to work with the wiring.

Because the back is going to have so many parts and very intricate; instead of, attaching the pieces rights away, I mapped it out with the drawings.

I drew up the middle part of the back to for sizing really. I am probably going to redraw later because I have to add a small light within the design.

Now to cut out the shoulder blades:

I needed to poke through so holes to what I did was use a pin so it would make small holes so I could reorganize them more easier in case I needed to add more or take out lights.

After I decided where the holes go, I used the soldering tool to make the holes larger so I could push the lights through.

I pushed the lights through the shoulder blade:

I just placed the blades where they will have to go and have not attached yet because I have a lot more to do.

And now the lights:

I have so much to do but this is a great start to July!

Let me know if anyone has any questions!!!!

Jul 3 2012

N7 Armor – Neck Part 1

Ok!

Today I started the neck of the N7 armor. It turned out very nicely and I am pretty happy about it.

First things first – Draw the design:

Use the door for a reflector:

Here is the results:

I places on the foam and started to poke in the holes:

The outlines actually turned out much better than I thought:

I cut it it and her you go:

I had my sister take some pics of how it will look when I finally connect it. I won’t connect this until I attach the lights:

I then used the soldering tool and burned in the design:

My next big hurtle is the lights in the back. I have to draw out the plans and I’ll keep you updated!

Any questions?

Apr 23 2012

Pattern and Eva Foam Advice – N7 Mass Effect 3 Armor

Hi Everyone!

I’m almost finished with my Primm cosplay and once she is done I will be starting my Commander Shepard – N7 Armor from Mass Effect 3. I thought I’d share some advice on getting ready to craft the EVA Foam and work with patterns. Just something for you to stew on before I start posting the tutorials with images and videos!

So, here we go!

1) First things First! Draw your armor pattern – I’d use poster board or large drawing paper for this. I refer to my previous post about how to stay symmetrical for this drawing: http://studioeingana.com/2012/04/18/n7-armor-symmetry-drawing/

If you use poster board, then you need to make sure the lines are dark enough to see on the folded half. That way you are as symmetrical as possible. Also, you will never find paper large enough for what you are looking for. Just imagine how many pieces you will be making with the armor and draw each piece on a separate paper. Then just tape together. I am thinking that the top of the armor should be like four pieces which will all be glued together with a HOT GLUE GUN. I am still planning out the legs. That’s going to be a whole different monster.

2) Measuring yourself! This is not FUN! HOWEVER!!! NO FEAR, LIZZY IS HERE!!! I found a great site to help you all out! This is awesome so check it out! How to Measure Yourself http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/how-to-measure-yourself

3) Cutting the Pattern – Cut the patterns out that you drew and place one pattern at a time down on the foam. Don’t trace with a permanent marker, if you accidently slip, it’s hard to hide. A small ball point pen will do. If you are going to use BLACK Eva Foam, a blue ball point pen will be ok if you can’t see the black. You should be fine though. Be careful to trace lightly because the foam is tough but will puncture if traced down too hard. Also, if you are going to heat an entire piece, remember, heat shrinks foam. Make sure to cut out at least a quarter inch more around the pattern. It’s going to shrink to the size you need so don’t worry.

I also recommend that if you have a lot of separate pieces that you label each piece of paper so you have an idea of what it was. You should also label the back of the actual foam piece so you don’t get mixed up! Just a thought!

4) Heat Source – I recommend using a Heat Gun! I would avoid using a stove burner because if you have not done this before, you may end up hurting yourself or melting the foam and the foam is not cheap. Once it’s melted, it’s going to look that way! So, you’ll either love it or hate it. Like I said before, the best heat source would be a heat gun! Spend the money and don’t cheap out! The Cheaper the gun, the less hot it is. They really aren’t that bad in price. It is very important to test on a few scraps of foam before moving to your good piece. Why? You just spent an hour to cut out the foam and then you overheat with the gun. Cut out a slab and just play with it. You’ll never learn unless you test and try try again! EVA foam turns colors when it gets hot! You only need to heat for about 2 minutes before you can manipulate into the shape that you want! The foam has never gotten so hot where it has burned me; HOWEVER, there is always a first. Be careful when you are working with any kind of heat source. If you have a very small piece and it keeps blowing away, use a screwdriver or chopsticks to hold it down! Don’t hold down with your fingers because you will get burned!

These are just some things to think about before you start watching me work this armor! I am always open for questions and will help out when needed! Just ask!

Have a great day!

Apr 18 2012

N7 Armor Symmetrical Drawing

Hi Everyone!

So, I’m sitting here at work eating my lunch and I keep trying to think what would be an easy way to create the drawings for the N7 armor.

There are a lot of methods but I want to make sure that it’s as symmetrical as possible. Then it hit me. What if I only draw one half and trace it?

For Example (THIS IS A ROUGH DRAFT DRAWING!!! The actual drawing will be much better):

Get a piece of drawing paper – I only had notebook paper at the moment.

Then draw the piece I will be creating – you have to imagine the paper will be larger and drawn to actual proportion.

After that fold the paper.

I used a black marker to make the drawing show through because the paper was too thick for this example.

Now that you can see the lines, you can start your tracing.

Once you trace the lines, you should have a symmetrical image!!!

I think this is the method I’m going to try when I start the armor. I’ll keep you all posted!

Have a great day!

Studio Eingana

Photography – Cosplay – Art – Blog

Tag Archives: 3

N7 Armor – Neck and Lights Part 2

N7 Armor – Back Lights – Part 1

N7 Armor – Neck Part 1

Pattern and Eva Foam Advice – N7 Mass Effect 3 Armor

N7 Armor Symmetrical Drawing

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